The latest magic ingredient to be touted as a topical Botox
alternative is Syn-ake, a synthetic tri-peptide derivative that the
manufacturer, Pentapharm,
claims can smooth wrinkles by inhibiting muscle contractions. Over the
past few years, an increasing number of beauty companies have launched
products that contain Syn-ake, including Sonia Dakar, Borba and Rodial.
Syn-ake
mimics the activity of a protein found in the venom of the deadly South
Asian temple viper. Temple vipers paralyze their victims by injecting
them with venom through their fangs, so the theory behind Syn-ake is
that the same principle can be used to relax the muscles movements that
cause frown lines and other facial wrinkles.
Pentapharm bases its claims on a study
it conducted in which 45 subjects were divided into three groups: one
used Syn-ake, one used a placebo, and one used Argireline, another
peptide said to inhibit muscle movement. After 28 days of twice-daily
application, the group that used Syn-ake showed a significant reduction
in wrinkle depth and increase in skin smoothness when compared to the
other groups.
The problem is this research has not been
peer-reviewed, and, to my knowledge, the results have not been repeated
by independent research. It has not been published in any reputable
scientific literature which makes me doubt the scientific validity of
the claims. If this product worked that well, wouldn't the company want to do a
reputable study to prove it? The skin is programmed to keep proteins
out and only very small molecules can be absorbed deep enough to have
any effect. That's why Botox and Insulin have to be injected. Of
course, there are a few exceptions, but I am not convinced that Syn-ake
is one of them.
My bottom line? Save your money until better
studies are done. In my opinion, without any further data Syn-ake is
just a modern version of plain old-fashioned snake oil.
Wishing you great skin!
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