Oil and The Skin

For years, skin care companies have proudly advertised their creams and lotions as "oil-free." But with the surge in popularity of natural and organic ingredients, oils are experiencing a comeback.

For years, skin care companies have proudly advertised their creams and lotions as "oil-free." But with the surge in popularity of natural and organic ingredients, oils are experiencing a comeback.

While it's true some oils can cause breakouts, others can actually be used to treat acne. Tea tree oil, for instance, has been shown to be as effective as a five percent benzoyl peroxide lotion in the treatment of mild acne (however, some people are allergic to it). Coconut oil also some offers protection against acne bacteria, but most dermatologists agree that certain forms can cause breakouts. However, an extract of coconut called monolaurin can be successfully used to treat acne.

Did you know that it is controversial whether or not mineral oil causes acne? Many studies have shown it does not, while a few have shown that it does. However, the only reason for a person to use mineral oil on the face is as an eye-makeup remover. Keep in mind there are "healthier" oils that are also better for the environment, such as safflower oil, that I recommend instead.

Many people with acne are advised to avoid oil-containing products. Unfortunately, many oil-free foundations use dimethicone, which may itself cause acne. I believe that only those with oily skin should avoid oil-containing products. People who have dry skin and acne are fine with oil containing foundations and moisturizers in most cases.

So why is it that many people report that oil containing products break out their skin? Some studies show it may be the combination of oil and the sun that's the problem. It's thought that ultraviolet exposure enhances the pore-clogging effect of oils in sunscreens, which could explain why some people experience breakouts after wearing SPF.

I'm a huge fan of oil-rich moisturizers for dry, non-acne-prone skin types (called DR types on my Skin Type Solutions scale) because they coat the skin's surface to prevent evaporation and provide linoleic acid, which helps skin hold on to water. This skin type can usually handle heavier oils like olive and coconut.

Here are a few of my favorite oils: 

Sunflower seed oil:  Studies show this oil can fight infection and improve skin barrier function. It is a good source of lineolic acid which helps the skin produce ceramides needed to prevent water form evaporating off the skin.

Evening primrose oil: Rich in omega-6 fatty acids, evening primrose oil is a great moisturizer. Many claim it may help treat acne, but there is better research showing that it improves dry skin. It is a good choice for dry skin acne types.

Olive oil: An antioxidant powerhouse, olive oil is a super all-round moisturizer and may even protect against skin cancer (see The Surprising Skin Salvation in Your Kitchen). Olive oil may be too heavy for acne sufferers, however, add it to your diet for an anti-inflammatory effect.

Jojoba oil: Jojoba has analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antiparasitic properties.

The bottom line:

1. There is no need to apply oil to skin that is already oily. In fact, most people with oily skin do not need a moisturizer.

2. It is not necessary for those with dry skin and acne to avoid oil containing foundations.

3. For those with oily skin and acne, I recommend a powder instead of a foundation because oil-free foundations often have dimethicone which can cause acne. (Please comment if you have found a good foundation for oily, acne prone skin.)

4. Adding anti-inflammatory oils to the diet such as olive oil may help acne.

5. Adding anti-inflammatory supplements such as evening primrose oil may help acne.

6. Do not apply oil to acne prone skin before going in the sun.

Wishing you great skin!

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Dr. Baumann is author of the best-selling book, " The Skin Type Solution." To learn more about her revolutionary skin typing system, visit her Web site, SkinTypeSolutions.com. 

All of Dr. Baumann's recommended skin care products are available online, and a portion of proceeds goes to The Dermatology Foundation.

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